|
Planting & Care Guidlines
The proper planting and care of your landscape trees
can significantly improve the appearance of your home grounds and add
substantially to your home's value.
Successful planting of trees is a combination of many factors and techniques.
Everyone who has ever planted has had some failures, even when they have
followed all recommended procedures. But, you can increase your chances
of success if the roots are kept moist at all times before planting; set
the tree at the proper depth (trees die because of being planted too deep
or mulched too deep which suffocates the roots); use a good organic soil
amendment; remove all air pockets by firming the soil around the root
ball; after planting, keep the root one moist during the first growing
season. There is nothing more important than water to the life of your
newly planted tree, but roots also need air as well as water. This guide
can help even the novice plant trees correctly so that their trees get
off to a good start and remain healthy and attractive for years to come.
SITE SELECTION
Plant far enough from building, roads, and other
obstacles to allow for adequate sunshine, rain, air circulation and room
for the trees to reach their maximum growth potential. Be sure that the
sites where you will plant the trees do not have underground gas, water,
sewer pipes, or electric and phone cables. Also, watch for overhead wires
that can impede growth. Call Miss Dig, five working days in advance, and
as a public service, they will send a representative to your site to give
free recommendations (800-482-7171). Proper placement on the site can
provide other benefits such as privacy screens or increased comfort by
blocking the winter wind and the summer sun.
SITE PREPRATION
Adequate drainage is essential for the survival
of newly planted trees. There is an old Nurseryman's belief that
you dig a $100 hole for a $50 plant. Any hole in the soil that will not
readily drain should have drainage flow established by proper excavation.
A simple test is to dig a pit and fill it with water; if it doesn't
drain overnight then a tree will not survive at this location. In the
planting area loosen the soil to a depth of 12 inches for at least twice
the diameter of the root ball. IN a poorly drained sites, dig the hole
6" deeper than the actual height of the root ball, and put sand or
gravel in bottom of the hole and place enough amended soil over this to
raise the ball 2" to 6" higher than existing ground level.
TRANSPORTING YOUR TREES
The foliage should be tarped while transporting
to prevent wind burn and desiccation or moisture loss. If possible keep
vehicle speed under 45 mph. Water the entire tree if it dries out in transit.
Be prepared to plant your tree immediately upon arrival. This means having
your hole pre-dug. Remove tarps immediately, and do not let your trees
lie around exposed to the wind and sun. Remember to keep the root ball
moist at all times! Root balls of large trees are heavy; either have heavy
equipment or adequate manpower to unload. Never lift the tree by the stem
or trunk, only lift by the burlaped root ball. Do not drop the ball and
damage the root system. Also, dropping can loosen the earth around the
roots, creating air pockets, which hinder the chances of survival.
PLANTING TECHNIQUES FOR BALLED AND BURLAPPED
TREES
Be prepared to plant and water your trees
immediately upon arrival. The planting hole is important to the life of
your tree. The tree must form new roots in the surrounding soil medium
at its new location in order to get a good grip on life and to thrive.
Dig your hole 50% wider than the root ball. Discard the poor subsoil.
Mix the remaining soil so that your backfill is at least one third organic
matter such as peat moss, aged compost, or animal manure. Do not use inorganic
fertilizers without guidance, and even then keep them off the root area.
A high phosphorus based starter fertilizer like Bone Meal or Ortho Upstart
plus Vitamin B1 may be added to the backfill material to stimulate new
root growth. If you do fertilize, do so to promote root growth, not top
growth. The adding of organic materials is very important if the soil
is extremely sandy or heavy clay. Organic soil amendments can help your
soil to be healthier, more productive, and aids in the efficient circulating
of nutrients, water, and air to the entire root zone. Beginning the 2nd
year, commence a deep root injection of a balanced fertilizer with miro
nutrients to stimulate top growth and to improve health and vitality.
It is a good practice to fertilizer every spring and early fall.
Aside from improper water techniques, the principle
reason for new tree failures is caused by planting too deep. Keep the
top of the root ball 2" to 8" higher than the ground level,
and do not mulch to deep as this suffocates the root system. A simple
way to ensure proper depth is to measure the height of the root ball and
then the depth of your hole. Prior to planting, fill the hole with water
and allow it to seep into the earth. Do not remove wire baskets or burlap
when placing ball into the hole. The burlap will rot in 4 to 8 weeks,
and the basket will deteriorate in 5 to 6 years. Meanwhile, the roots
grow right through it and you have kept the root system intact, and free
of air pockets.
Next, properly position the tree into a straight
vertical position and fill in around the ball with your improved soil
mixture until the hole is two thirds filled. Gently, but firmly pack the
soil and then water to remove any air pockets. After earth and water has
settled, finish your backfill remembering to leave the top of the ball
high. Mound any remaining earth 2" to 3" high and about 18"
from the base of the tree. This will act as a reservoir to keep water
from running off, and away from the root system. Next, use a good neutral
pH mulch, like shredded cypress, and apply 3" to 4" deep in
approximately a 5ft ring, but keep 6" from the trunk to avoid mold
and mildew from damaging the tree trunk. Mulching helps retain moisture
and insulate the root ball from hot, dry summer winds, and from raw, wintry
blasts. Mulching is important for the survival of newly transplanted trees.
It also keeps weed growth down and improves the appearance of your trees.
Finally, remove the sisal twine that has held the branches up. The grower
did this so he could dig the tree and ship it with minimal branch damage.
Newly planted trees occasionally my need support,
depending on the size of the crown of the tree and the exposure to high
winds. "As a Rule," trees over 4 inches in trunk diameter and
over 10 feet tall should be staked using either one stake on the side
of the prevailing winds, or with two stakes on opposite sides of the trees.
Newly planted trees should only be staked when absolutely necessary, to
avoid canbrium layer damage or girddling of the trees trunk. If you stake
any trees, be sure to remove all support systems after the first year;
by now the roots are established enough to support the tree.
WATERING
There is nothing more important than water to
the life of your newly planted trees. Newly planted trees, with limited
root systems, require regular watering to reduce transplant shock, and
to generate new roots. Ideally, your tree needs 1 inch of rain per week.
A long, slow, soaking, drink-not a quick Thunderstorm!! When nature doesn't
supply this rain, hand watering becomes necessary. By laying the hose
on top of the root ball (with the water running at a very slow trickle!)
for 30 to 45 minutes, the tree gets water soaked into the root zone. Don't
rely on lawn irrigation systems to water trees. These systems are designed
to water the top 1 or 2 inches of soil and usually do not provide enough
water to soak the trees root zone.
Post-planted trees should be carefully monitored
for 12 to 24 months after planting. Keep the soil moist but not totally
saturated. Overwatering is as harmful as underwatering. An easy check
is to feel under the mulch, if the soil is good and moist, no water is
needed. If the soil feels dry, go ahead and water. This check should be
done at least once a week. In times of hot dry winds, tree may need water
twice a week. Never let the tree go completely dry or it will die!
During the first week after planting spray
foliage of tree. This will help leaves and needles keep their vigor. Never
water during the heat of the day! This will scorch the leaves or needles.
The best time to water is in the early morning (before 8 a.m.) or early
evening (after 6p.m.). This will allow the tree to dry before the sun
gets really hot and before late evening moisture can cause fungus problems
from excess water being held during cool nights. Remember that tree roots
need air as much as they need water! Too much water will drown them. In
heavy clay soils less watering will be needed than in sandy soils, watch
for water standing or puddling around your trees, if so cut back on watering.
POST PLANT FERTILIZATION
The root-zone environment influences the growth
rate, vitality, and beauty of trees. The soil structure (the chemical
and physical characteristics of your soil) the pH, ad fertility controls
many of the biological activities that must occur in a healthy tree.
During the 2nd year a newly planted tree should have soil pH and fertility
to determine if any deficiencies exist. At this time an aggressive fertilization
plan should be implemented. Skyhorse Station, Inc. offers this service.
ANIMAL AND WEED CONTROL
It is good practice to keep weeds down which
compete for moisture, and nutrients. Weeds also provide habitat for insects,
mice, and rabbits. Pet damage can seriously injure and deform your trees.
You may have to protect them with wire fencing.
|
